London’s Smithfield and Billingsgate markets, two iconic institutions with nearly a millennium of history, are set to close following a decision by the City of London Corporation to end its support. This marks the end of a chapter in London’s vibrant market life, both of which have played integral roles in shaping the city’s character.
Smithfield Market: A Legacy in Livestock and Meat
Smithfield Market, established as early as the 12th century, was originally a bustling livestock market, where animals were fattened, sold, and slaughtered. Its name, thought to derive from the Old English “smeeth field,” described the flat, open land near the River Fleet. The market flourished for centuries, with the City of London granted market rights in 1327 by Edward III.
Notable figures like Daniel Defoe praised its scale in the 18th century, calling it “without question, the greatest in the world.” Yet, as London expanded and the city’s residents grew more concerned with the unsanitary conditions, Smithfield became the subject of literary disdain. Charles Dickens, in Oliver Twist, vividly depicted the chaos, filth, and noise of the market, painting a grim picture of its role in the city.
In 1855, the livestock market moved to Islington, and Smithfield transitioned into a wholesale meat market. Designed by Horace Jones, the man behind Tower Bridge, the new Smithfield became a marvel of engineering, with underground railways to bring in vast amounts of meat. The market’s legacy continued, albeit with a different character, as it handled massive quantities of meat for shops and restaurants across London.
Despite its long history, the market began to decline in the latter half of the 20th century, as the meat industry shifted away from London’s docks and supermarkets started sourcing directly from distributors. Today, Smithfield remains active, but only a fraction of its former scale, with just 42 trading premises operating in its East and West Market buildings.
Billingsgate Market: From Fish to History
Billingsgate Market, like Smithfield, has seen centuries of transformation. Originally a place for various goods, it became a dedicated fish market in the 16th century. In 1699, Parliament granted it an exclusive right to sell fish, except for eels, which were reserved for Dutch fishermen in thanks for their assistance during the Great Fire of 1666. Over the years, Billingsgate grew to become the largest inland fish market in the UK, with a notable history of colorful characters and events.
By the late 19th century, a new market building designed by Horace Jones opened to accommodate growing trade. Among its workers were famous figures such as George Orwell and the notorious Kray twins. In the 1980s, Billingsgate moved to a new site in Poplar, though it still struggled with space issues and complaints from the surrounding financial district about the overpowering smell of fish.
Despite these challenges, the market has continued to operate, handling thousands of tonnes of fish each year. But now, like Smithfield, it faces an uncertain future. The City of London Corporation’s decision to withdraw support comes after an unsuccessful attempt to relocate both Billingsgate and Smithfield to Dagenham. The markets’ closure signifies the end of an era, as the Corporation focuses on more lucrative opportunities.
A Changing London
The closures of these two historic markets highlight a broader shift in London’s economy and culture. While some hope that a new fish market could rise from the ashes of Billingsgate, the decision to close both markets is a reminder that tradition, no matter how deeply ingrained, can be overtaken by economic pressures.
For those who have worked at these markets, the closure is a loss of a unique and irreplaceable way of life. As one Billingsgate worker put it, “It’s all about the money now. Another tradition will go in London.”
